TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - i'd paint the horns black, red looks out of place
People Seeking Info
 
   


     
Subject i'd paint the horns black, red looks out of place
     
Posted by blacksc on September 15, 2007 at 12:43 PM
  This message has been viewed 466 times.
     
In Reply To Greddy SMIC's / Powertrix Ducts / CZP Louvers & More!! posted by GPA on September 15, 2007 at 11:29 AM
     
Message :This is a summary of my latest mod, which consisted of Greddy SMIC’s, Powertrix Foglight Ducts, Carbon Canister Delete, Moroso Overflow Tank, CZP Fender Louvers, and Hella Horns.
:All of these have been previously featured on TT.NET.
:Perhaps the way I did mine may yield a few good ideas for someone.
:What I did was pull bits from different posts and then tweaked a few things that I thought might work better.
:Most of this post will focus on the items I did differently than others that came before me.
:First, the Front Fascia (FF) comes off:
:
:Link to FF Removal Procedure: [ http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/faciaremoval.html ]
:I then removed my OEM Foglights and Foglight Housings since I’ll be installing the Powertrix Ducts (don’t have photos of this).
:Next, I did the Carbon Canister and Stock Overflow Tank removal following Robo’s procedure:
:[ http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html ]
:The Hella Horns and Greddy SMIC’s went on next.
:I’m not posting installation pics because the directions are very simple.
:The Hellas have 2 terminals. Put your existing horn wire on one terminal and ground the other terminal. Simple as that.
:As for the Greddy’s, they’re pretty much a direct fit with simple instructions.
:Here’s a few photos of them installed:
:http://images.andale.com/f2/101/113/14239423/2007/9/14/GreddySMICs_002.jpg ]">
:
:Now onto the Moroso Overflow Tank:
:After screwing in the bottom elbow, I wasn’t confident she would hold water over the long haul. I decided to use Teflon tape and also add some Seal-All waterproof sealant for extra measure.
:This is the bottom of the tank, which I allowed to dry overnight:
:
:I elected to bring the tank to the outboard side (as some others have done) so as to keep airflow path clear behind the Intercooler.
:Mounting consisted of using the Moroso Mounting Clamp attached to the outboard Intercooler mounting point. I slid the bottle down and filled it about ½ full with Coolant/Water. This photo also shows where I ran the stock overflow hose to the bottom of the Moroso Tank:
:
:For the top fitting, I went to the Auto Parts store and got a brass elbow similar to the one on the bottom of the tank. I just went with Teflon tape on this one since it won’t have fluid constantly opposing it like the bottom one.
:The tank was then pushed up as far as it could go and ended up resting against the mount point where the stock Overflow Tank was.
:I decided to cut a piece of the old Intercooler rubber hose to use as a chaff pad, so that the tank could rest against this bracket at the top without fear of it wearing a hole or creating noise from vibration.
:Here’s the top of the tank with chaff pad in place. In the photo, I’m scribing a hole through the pad to secure it with Safety Wire:
:
:The Safety Wire sequence:
:The wire is passed through the bracket and looped around the base of the brass elbow:
:
:The other end of the Wire goes through the chaff pad and then through the bolt hole in the bracket:
:
:The Wire is twisted until nice and snug:
:
:Tail of the Wire is curled to conceal the sharp edge:
:http://images.andale.com/f2/101/113/14239423/2007/9/14/GreddySMICs_015.jpg ]">
:For those of you that are not familiar with Safety Wire, it is used heavily in the Aviation Industry. I was prior Air Force, which is where I realized the versatility of this tool.
:For reference, here’s a pic of the Safety Wire and special Safety Wire Pliers:
:
:I also put a chaff pad on the brass reducer where I spliced into the coolant overflow line. I looked everywhere for a lightweight plastic 3/8-1/4 reducer, but couldn’t find one; therefore, I had to go with this heavy-ass brass one:
:[ http://images.andale.com/f2/101/113/14239423/2007/9/14/GreddySMICs_017.jpg ]">
:Here’s a photo of the finished install:
:
:Now let’s look at the Powertrix Foglight Ducts.
:I wanted to install them in a way where I could remove them in the future.
:For example, if I damage my FF, I could get a new one and transfer the Ducts, etc.
:I came up with using small stainless screws with lock nuts. I simply drilled through the fascia and ducts and installed the screws then sealed up the perimeter from the inside with some black Permatex:
:
:
:Of course I want FUNCTIONAL Ducts, so I got some 3” Brake Duct Hose (expensive, but worth it):
:
:Put my FF back against the car to test-fit the duct hose:
:
:A 10-inch section of the brake duct was the length I came up with.
:I marked the IC Ducts and prepared for cutting.
:Ran the Dremel first and then fine tuned it with Utility Knife:
:
:

I cut the hole a bit smaller than the mark (the mark was O.D.) so I’d have a good tight fit :)
:Here’s a photo with both duct holes cut:
:
:Now, how do we attach the hose to the ducts??
:Again, I’d like for them to be easily removable for future maintenance.
:The fit of the hose into the IC Duct was VERY tight (I had to kind of “screw” it in…that was good). I then drilled two holes (180 degrees apart) in the IC Duct so I could attach wire ties through the brake hose like this:
:View from top of IC Duct:
:
:View from inside of IC Duct:
:
:Turned out to be very sturdy….not going anywhere!
:I did the same for attaching the brake hose on the Foglight Duct side.
:Drilled two holes, one on top and one on bottom.
:Then ran my wire ties through to accept the hose:
:
:I put a small slit in the hose with my Utility Knife then marked it so I could see it easily since I’d be attaching the wire ties with the FF in place (in close quarters):
:
:
:It wasn’t that difficult to attach the wire ties by going through the side marker openings. I just got the wire ties started when the FF wasn’t completely pushed on the car, then I pushed the FF on, reached in, and pulled them tight!
:Here’s a photo looking through the side marker opening:
:
:Photo looking through the FF:
:
:Now we move onto the CZP Fender Louvers:
:
:Install was a breeze. COZ provides good instructions with the Louvers.
:I bought some new OEM Fender Liners to go with the Louvers since mine were a bit tattered from years of driving.
:Photo of Louver installed on Liner:
:
:Driver’s Side Louver installed on car:
:
:Pass Side Louver installed on car:
:
:Driver’s Side view looking through side marker opening:
:
:Pass Side view looking through side marker opening:
:
:This is a view from the bottom Driver’s Side showing where I ran my coolant overflow drain line from the top of the Moroso Bottle:
:
:My pile of parts after the mods:
:
:I wanted to mention that I got these OEM Nissan clips from COZ for the fender liners:
:
:I bought ten of them and used almost all of them. They really came in handy. I found several places in the fender wells and under the car where I was able to use them.
:Finally, a few photos of the front of the car (post-installation).
:I painted the Foglight Ducts flat black for sort of a “Mad Max” look, since my car’s exterior is far from pristine. Didn’t want it to look too flashy.
:In the future, I may paint them to match the FF when I get my paint job.
:
:
:Haven’t got to drive her much since the upgrade, but she seems to pull a little harder than before with a steadier power band :)
:Hope this might help someone someday. Feel free to email with any questions.
:Thanks to Kyle at IPP, Coz at CZP, C Park at Powertrix, and the many TT.NET Members from which I’ve gotten ideas!
:GPA
:

     
Follow Ups  
     
Post a
Followup

You cannot reply to this message because you are not logged in.